Dhaka, Bangladesh – Laili Begum can no longer afford to keep her two children in school. There are days when the ۳۷-year-old garment worker struggles to put even one proper meal on the table.
An experienced sewing operator at Virtual Bottoms Limited, a ready-made garments factory near Bangladesh’s capital Dhaka, Begum earns around ۱۵,۰۰۰ taka ($۱۲۱) a month, which sometimes rises to ۱۸,۰۰۰–۲۰,۰۰۰ taka ($۱۴۵–$۱۶۱) when she works overtime.
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Her ۱۵-year-old daughter and ۱۲-year-old son dropped out of school earlier this year because she could not afford their education.
“We can barely afford one proper meal a day. This morning, we had only puffed rice and Bombay mix [a snack]. There was nothing for lunch. We’ve been going hungry, hoping to have a proper meal tonight. Yesterday was the same. This is how we survive now,” she told Al Jazeera.
“My son is so thin that you can count every rib in his chest. What else can I do?”
Begum is among approximately four million garment factory workers in Bangladesh, half of them women. They are now protesting for better wages.
Bangladesh, the world’s second-largest apparel exporter after China, is a key supplier to global fashion brands such as H&M, Zara, Levi Strauss, Walmart, and Primark. The country’s ready-made garment sector accounts for more than ۸۰ percent of its export earnings, which touched $۳۹bn last financial year.
Yet, the people sewing those clothes say their pay no longer covers basic living costs.
‘Government only makes promises’
A Muslim-majority South Asian nation of ۱۷۰ million people, Bangladesh has one of the world’s lowest wages among apparel-producing countries.
Cambodia has a minimum wage of $۲۱۰ a month for garment workers, Vietnam’s range from $۱۴۰-$۲۱۰, while wages at China’s manufacturing hub of Guangdong range between $۲۸۶ and $۳۷۸.
That disparity – worsened by rising inflation and the growing cost of living – pushed the workers to strike and hit the streets on Saturday to demand a minimum wage of ۳۰,۰۰۰ taka ($۲۴۱), more than double the current wage of ۱۲,۵۰۰ taka ($۱۰۲).
On Sunday, Begum joined one such protest in the Jamgora part of the Ashulia industrial area on the outskirts of the capital Dhaka, with the police firing tear gas and stun grenades to disperse the protesters, and arresting dozens of them.
The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association said the demonstrations disrupted operations at ۵۲۹ factories on Sunday and affected nearly a million workers.
Later that day, the government announced the formation of a six-member wage board to review the workers’ demands.
But that did not stop the garment workers from returning to the streets for a third straight day on Monday.
In northern Dhaka’s Gazipur area, the workers blocked the Dhaka-Tangail highway, and vandalised and torched several vehicles, while clashes with police were reported from the neighbouring Mirpur district.
“The government only makes promises,” Begum told Al Jazeera. “They haven’t told us when wages will increase and by how much.”
Inflation eating into wages
Rasel Khan, a ۳۰-year-old garment worker at Ashulia, told Al Jazeera his monthly earnings of ۱۸,۰۰۰–۲۰,۰۰۰ taka ($۱۴۵–$۱۶۱), including overtime, were no longer enough to support his family, which included his mother and younger brother besides his wife and child.
As living costs soar, he has accumulated a debt of about ۱۰۰,۰۰۰ taka ($۸۰۵) to meet his needs. “It’s impossible to support a family on this income anymore. Prices keep rising, and we have to borrow money just to survive,” he said.
The last revision of the minimum wage in the garment sector took place in December ۲۰۲۳. Since then, prices have continued to climb. Official data put annual inflation at ۸.۳۴ percent in September, including ۷.۲۲ percent for food and ۹.۳۰ percent for non-food expenses.
Begum says she pays ۳,۵۰۰ taka ($۲۸) as rent for a single room shared with her mother and children. Her father, living in their village in the central district of Sirajganj, also depends on her income.
She says she is burning discarded paper and other materials to cook because she is not able to afford a gas cylinder that costs about ۲,۲۰۰ taka ($۱۸).
Zahid Hussain, a former lead economist at the World Bank’s Dhaka office, said persistent inflation over the past five years has sharply eroded the purchasing power of low-paid workers.
“When real income falls, they have to cut their daily living standards,” he told Al Jazeera. “They don’t have any surplus income.”
Hussain said a recent hike in the salary of government employees has had a “demonstration effect” among private-sector workers waiting for a similar relief.
The government’s announcement of a wage board follows an amendment to labour laws to reduce the wage review cycle from five years to three years. The current three-year period ends in December.
Prime Minister Tarique Rahman convened an emergency meeting of top government officials on Sunday, while Home Minister Salahuddin Ahmed met the garment factory owners on Monday, assuring them that a new minimum wage would be fixed through negotiations.
Labour Minister Ariful Haque Choudhury meanwhile urged the workers to resume work, saying the wage board would begin its deliberations shortly.
But Babul Akhter, a workers’ representative on the board, called for the new wages to take effect with January ۲۰۲۷ salaries. He also asked the demonstrators to return to work and demanded the release of arrested workers and withdrawal of cases against them.
‘Western brands hold lion’s share’
The impending wage negotiations come at a challenging time for Bangladesh’s garment industry, as manufacturers balance workers’ demands for better wages with rising production costs and intensifying global competition.
Sheikh Hossain Muhammad Mustafiz, an official at Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association and managing director of Cute Dress Industry Ltd, told Al Jazeera that fair wages and employment security must go hand in hand with their ability to compete in the international market.
“Workers deserve wages that support a decent standard of living. However, without fair purchasing prices from international brands, significant wage increases could put pressure on factories and threaten employment,” he said.
Mustafiz emphasised that protecting the workers’ purchasing power amid rising inflation is a responsibility that global brands that buy Bangladeshi garments must share.
“Sustainable wage growth cannot be achieved by manufacturers alone,” he said. “International brands must contribute through fair pricing and responsible purchasing practices to protect both the workers’ livelihoods and the industry’s long-term sustainability.”
Taqbir Huda, a Tech Global Institute senior fellow at the University of Oxford, accused the western brands who buy Bangladeshi garments of not addressing the issue of the workers’ rights.
“One party that could change the situation overnight has held the most extractive and exploitative role: the western buyer brands who hold the lion’s share of the value that is generated by the clothes that these workers produce,” he told Al Jazeera.
Huda said the wage board, which was due this year, was announced only after the workers began their protest.
“History gives very little reason for the workers to believe anything will improve unless they protest,” he said, adding that the formation of the wage board does not meet their demands unless it addresses rising inflation and the cost-of-living crisis.
For Begum, a drawn-out process to decide the new wages means another month of struggle to feed her family.
“Wages must rise, but food prices must also come down.”
