Tears were shed, sea shanties sung and tales of stormy voyages exchanged as one of the UK’s most characterful ships set sail for the final time.
Scillonian III, also known as the “vomit comet” because in stormy weather it tended to rock a little too much for the comfort of those susceptible to sea sickness, has chugged between the British mainland and the Isles of Scilly, for just shy of half a century.
But all good things (or bad, depending on your sea legs) come to an end and on Sunday the grand old ship made one last ۳۷-nautical-mile trip from the island of St Mary’s to Penzance in Cornwall.
“Everybody on the islands have been talking about this last voyage,” said Terry Ward, who was on board Scillonian III’s first journey through the Atlantic swells to Scilly in ۱۹۷۷.
“That trip was beautiful,” said Ward, whose great-grandfather was the founding chair of the Isles of Scilly Steamship Group, which has operated the ship.
“We sailed overnight from north Devon where the boat was built. It was a lovely, glassy sea. When we arrived, the quay was packed with locals wanting to have a first look. A magical trip.”
They could not have known that Scillonian III would last so long. Over ۴۹ years, it has sailed more than ۱۰,۰۰۰ times, carrying islanders, holidaymakers and ornithologists (Scilly is a fine location for bird-spotting) between spring and autumn.
“I don’t think there’s a better loved ship anywhere,” Ward said. “It’s been part of the fabric of the islands. When it turned up in March every year, it signalled the start of the season. We weren’t marooned any more. When it left at the end of the season, it left a bit of an empty feeling.”
Ward accepted that travelling on it could be tough for those with sensitive stomachs. “I think it’s a beautiful vessel but when it was rough it could turn into a hospital ship.”
People came to favour a particular seat. Those keen to spot dolphins or basking sharks liked the outside areas; others liked the lower deck inside, where you could fall asleep, comforted by the ship’s drone.
Ray Jackman, a Scillonian businessman who was on the ship’s first and last voyages, always sat next to the engine room because the crew would show him the inner workings of the ship. “It’s been an amazing ship. She’s very rarely broken down and has been a big part of people’s lives on the islands. It’s a sad day.”
after newsletter promotion
As its name suggests, Scillonian III was the third passenger ship to serve the islands over the last century. The first, Scillonian, operated from ۱۹۲۶ to ۱۹۵۶ and during the second world war was fitted with guns and used as a military transport. Scillonian II lasted ۲۵ years before being replaced by Scillonian III, which was launched by the then Prince Charles.
Scillonian IV is on its way to the islands from south-east Asia, where it has been built, around the Cape of Good Hope. It will make its maiden voyage between the islands and the mainland in March and the steamship company says it will carry more passengers, be swifter and feature “roll and pitch reduction systems” to counteract the impact of the swells.
The steamship company had expected a few dozen passengers on the final voyage but tickets sold out. A Scilly shanty group called Mackerel Sky sang her off. The Cape Cornwall Singers waited at the other end to welcome her in. Then it was off to the Dock Inn in Penzance for more music, dancing, beers and tears.
Among those along for the final voyage was Sholto Blackwell, a self-confessed Scillonian superfan and founder of the ship’s Facebook appreciation page, which has almost ۵,۰۰۰ members.
Blackwell, a crane operator and lifting supervisor who lives near Bristol, said he felt very sad for Scillonian III. “It’s the end of an era for me. It carries so many memories.” He has regularly sailed on the ship since he was taken to Scilly on holidays as a boy. “I’ve made maybe ۳۰ or ۴۰ return trips.”
Feeling queasy has sometimes been part of the experience. “I’ve suffered with sea sickness many times,” he said. “But the reward is, you get to Scilly, which is magical. Feeling sick was part of the journey, part of the fun.”
He accepted that the islands and crew needed the new ship – but was not completely convinced the new vessel would mean the loss of the thrills and spills Scillonian III was known for. “They say it’s going to make for faster, calmer journeys. We’ll see.”
